Leavenworth 2024

Created on January 01, 2024

I spent a lot of time climbing elsewhere this year but climbing at home reminded me how lucky I am to live here! Dragons of Eden was a particular highlight as I had written that route off as beyond my ability. Turns out it’s one of the best routes in the Stuart Range (even with the occasional C1 move or two for the average 5.11 climber 😁)!

Nova soaking up some early spring sun at Castle.


Brett dialing it in! We both sent MF Direct after some unnecessary headpointing. In classic fashion, we made it out to be much harder in our heads than it actually was.

Orbit and yellow monkey flowers up the Icicle.


Jack's first time on Outer Space!


A classic Castle lap with Claire Pennell.


Kaitlin lowering off Drip Wall.


Can you spot Jeromy on Nebula?


British Ollie thinking he's in Patagonia. Vultures, condors — potatoes, potahtoes.


Jack on Annie's Climax.

Jack on Regular Route.


Me about to have heat stroke on Outer Space — I climbed the rest as fast as I could so Kevin could lead the handcrack pitch. Fun-but-brutal day.


Sean Fujimori walking the Nose of Jello Tower.

NW Face of Liberty Bell


I thought this route was nothing special, and I probably won't repeat it, but it's always great to be in the alpine and we had a wonderful day. It was also fun to see Butters at the Mazama store ahead of his IFMGA pinning and big Stu coming off Ellen Pea.

The West Face of CBR


In preparation for the Hulk, Brett and I did a lap up the W Face. The pump got me on the enduro corner pitch, but I managed to send the roof and figured out the beta on the crux. Honestly I thought the 5.8++ offwidth pitch was the hardest of the entire route, but that's because I hate bombay chimneys!

West Ridge of Prusik

I don't think there's a way to make this day easy! I certainly won't be bringing climbing shoes if I do it again! We brought a 60m Beal Joker, but a half rope would've been better. Anything to shed weight. Filtering water is essential. Overall we had a ton of fun and caught some great views, but I will say my chronically-injured hip starting falling apart towards the end of the 15 hours of hiking!

Dragons of Eden


When Jimmy and I set off to climb Dragons, I expected a sufferfest. However, the route was surprisingly straightforward. It protects well and is super splitter crack climbing. Running into Stuart and John kept spirits particularly high! Trouble pulling our rope meant we got to watch Stu send the headwall. Nothing but stoke all around.

And that's a wrap!